There have been numerous misconceptions about the art of cooking mushrooms, all of which Alice Zaslavsky, the accomplished cookbook author, is determined to debunk. She ardently champions the "wet-fry" technique for achieving flavor-rich results that defy conventional wisdom.
Traditionally, we've been advised never to wash mushrooms. The belief was that washing would lead to excessive moisture, rendering them slimy during cooking. As a result, people meticulously brushed away dirt or even invested in specialized tools for this purpose, all to avoid any contact with water. However, despite these efforts, their beloved fungi often ended up disappointingly soggy, leaving them with a lifetime of skepticism about mushrooms. But what if I were to tell you that much of what you've been taught about cooking mushrooms is fundamentally flawed?
First and foremost, it's crucial to stop thinking of mushrooms as vegetables. They belong to a unique fungal kingdom, and expecting them to behave like the denizens of the animal and plant kingdoms is a mistake. In fact, mushrooms share an interesting similarity with humans as they can absorb vitamin D from sunlight, a process akin to "tanning" for 15 minutes, which enhances their vitamin D levels.
Moreover, unlike vegetables or meat, mushrooms maintain their structural integrity even when subjected to prolonged cooking. This quality makes them a popular choice in vegan recipes, where they can emulate pulled pork or even substitute for a steak. Their shape remains intact, showcasing their inherent savory goodness.
To truly accentuate the natural glutamates, present in mushrooms, you need to embrace the rich, brown varieties. The darker the mushroom, the more umami it harbors, and searing them enhances their meaty essence.
However, one of the most common errors people commit is adding fat to the pan prematurely. This traps their natural moisture, ultimately leading to the dreaded sweaty and slimy texture that mushroom-averse individuals despise.
The solution? The "wet fry."
To wet-fry mushrooms, before introducing any fat to the pan, crank up the heat. Add a splash of water and a dash of soy or Worcestershire sauce. Allow these ingredients to work their magic, infusing the mushrooms with flavor and intensifying their umami by evaporating any excess moisture from their spongy bodies. This is a stark contrast to vegetables, where excess moisture can break down or toughen their cell structure. In the case of mushrooms, they maintain their shape while absorbing the aromatic essence of the seasonings.
This revelation means you can dispense with the rule of keeping mushrooms completely dry. Instead, give your mushrooms a thorough soak or rinse, similar to how you handle salad leaves. This process effectively purges them of any grit or pine needles. You can even include other ingredients in the soaking process, such as herbs, greens, garlic, and shallots, which will soften their skins and make them easier to peel.
Now, returning to the wet-fried mushrooms: once the liquid has fully evaporated, and a delectable brown film of flavor graces the bottom of the pan, it's time to infuse that "fry" into the "wet fry" process. Add a dash of brandy (note the potential for flames!), which will deglaze the pan and lift the fond, those crispy bits. Then, introduce some butter or a drizzle of oil to reintegrate all that saucy savoriness. This will further caramelize the mushrooms and leave them with a golden brown glaze of pure delight.
In this particular recipe, I've chosen a stroganoff-inspired flavor profile for the wet fry. This creates a delightful concoction in which the mushrooms play a starring role, entangled with fettuccine (I've used fresh here, but dried works just as well; follow the package instructions). Once you've mastered the art of wet frying, feel free to experiment with various flavors and applications—think soups, sauces, omelette fillings, or stir-fried noodles. Don't forget to explore different mushroom varieties too. While I've used standard button mushrooms here, you can easily swap them for more exotic options like fresh shiitake, shimeji, chestnut, and more. The possibilities are as boundless as your creativity in the kitchen.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
500g button mushrooms
2 sprigs of thyme
4 cloves of garlic
1 shallot
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce (vegetarians can substitute with soy sauce)
1 tbsp brandy
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp Dijon mustard
¼ tsp paprika
200g creme fraiche
50g finely grated parmesan
400g fresh fettuccine
Chopped chives and parsley for garnish
Begin by soaking the mushrooms, thyme, garlic, and shallot in water for 10 minutes to remove any dirt and grit from the mushrooms. This process also softens the garlic and shallot skins, making them easier to peel. Once soaked, slice the mushrooms thinly while keeping the stalks intact, discarding any damaged portions.
Next, heat a large frying pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, and half a cup of water. Bring it to a boil and let it vigorously boil for 10 to 15 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated.
While the mushrooms are boiling, finely slice the garlic and shallot and set them aside. Simultaneously, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Returning to the mushrooms, once the liquid has evaporated, allow the mushrooms to sear in the pan for about a minute, tossing them occasionally until they turn a beautiful golden brown. At this point, add the brandy to deglaze the pan, taking care as it may flame up.
Incorporate the olive oil, butter, garlic, and shallots. Season with salt and sauté until the mushrooms take on a glossy, golden brown appearance.
Stir in the tomato paste and mustard, cooking for one to two minutes until everything adopts a uniform shade of burnt umber.
Remove the pan from the heat, and then gently fold in the paprika, creme fraiche, and two-thirds
