Nigel Slater presents a tantalizing blend of recipes in his latest culinary journey potato and mushroom gratin, and mincemeat slices
December 11, 2023
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Embrace the warmth of the kitchen as the oven emanates a comforting heat. Picture a shallow dish cradling potatoes, slowly baking in a creamy embrace infused with the aromatic essence of smoked garlic and tarragon.
The centerpiece, a potato gratin, layers thinly sliced potatoes with plump oyster mushrooms. To counter the richness, envisage a crisp salad of bitter leaves, poised to sweep the garlicky cream off the plates.
But this gratin isn’t merely a principal dish; it serves as a versatile side companion. Pair it seamlessly with cold Sunday roasts or succulent grilled chicken. As twilight descends, the allure of dishes simmering on low heat amplifies, saturating the kitchen with the sweet fragrance of hours-long cooking. The season demands meals that linger, preparation that captivates—a cherished ritual where cooking commences well before dusk and dinner dances into the late hours.
And amid this culinary symphony, there’s the creation of a cake—a shallow, square masterpiece reminiscent of a classic traybake. Soft brown sugar and vanilla harmonize within its sweet crumb, interrupted playfully by spoonfuls of delectable mincemeat. While it’s perfect for teatime indulgence, the temptation lingers to elevate it to dessert status, perhaps paired with slices of Christmas clementines, invoking the spirit of the season.
This cake isn’t just an alternative; it's a lighter rendition for those averse to the traditional yuletide weightiness. The flavors are just as festive, but the texture leans towards a sponge-like delight rather than the usual fruit-laden Christmas cake. For those who dare, serving it warm enhances its allure, best accompanied by a generous jug of cream.
Potato and mushroom gratin:
The art of crafting a potato gratin lies in patience, allowing the potatoes to languorously absorb the garlicky cream. A wide, shallow dish is essential—the golden brown surface layer and the softening underneath, a testament to this slow culinary waltz.
Opt for the King Oyster mushrooms; their plump stalks or thickly sliced field mushrooms shall complement the potatoes perfectly. Lightly brown them in oil before intertwining them with the potatoes.
A vibrant, green salad stands as the ideal companion—a medley preferably infused with watercress or bitter leaves to juxtapose the gratin's creamy allure. The dressing, sharp and spirited, adorned with a dash of oil and red wine vinegar seasoned generously with Dijon mustard. Serves 4
Ingredients:
Potatoes: 1 kg
Smoked garlic: 2 cloves, peeled
Double cream: 500ml
Whole milk: 200ml
Porcini or King Oyster mushrooms: 180g
Olive or vegetable oil: 4 tbsp
Tarragon leaves: 3 tbsp
A smidge of butter
Instructions:
Peel the potatoes and slice them thinly, aiming for a thickness no greater than a £1 coin. (A mandolin slicer is perfect for this task.)
Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Warm the cream, milk, and sliced garlic in a saucepan, allowing the infusion. Slice the mushrooms to match the potato thickness. Sauté the mushrooms in oil until they achieve a golden hue, then place them on kitchen paper.
Butter a large (25cm) baking dish. Layer the potato slices, interspersing them with tarragon leaves and mushrooms. Pour the infused cream, ensuring the garlic slices are nestled among the potatoes.
Bake for approximately an hour until the potatoes yield effortlessly to a skewer.
Mincemeat slices:
This cake promises ease in preparation—a versatile treat for teatime or dessert. Whisk eggs and sugar until they form a fluffy, light concoction before incorporating the melted butter. As you pour the batter into the cake tin, swiftly spoon dollops of mincemeat, ensuring these juicy clusters are distributed throughout the sponge. Once baked and cooled, this delectable cake preserves its allure for a couple of days when stored in an airtight container. Serves 8
Ingredients:
Butter: 250g
Eggs: 2
Light, soft brown sugar: 280g
Self-raising flour: 250g
Mincemeat: 350g
A few drops of vanilla extract
To serve:
Oranges: 2 or clementines: 4
Double cream
Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 170C/gas mark 3. Line a 30x20 baking tin with parchment paper. Melt the butter in a saucepan and let it cool for a few minutes.
Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl, add sugar, and whisk until the mixture turns light and frothy. Incorporate the melted butter, vanilla extract, and flour, stirring briefly until the ingredients merge.
Pour the somewhat runny mixture into the lined tin, dropping tablespoons of mincemeat randomly.
Bake for 40-45 minutes until the cake puffs up and feels soft. It should retain a sticky quality in some areas. Peel and slice the oranges or clementines, removing any white pith. Serve the cake once cooled, cut into 8 equal pieces, alongside the citrus slices and a jug of cream.
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