An innovative savory recipe in which layers of tender courgette are firmly sandwiched between two types of cheese and tomato.
While the selection is best between noon and 2pm, I prefer to visit the canteen-like Felice below our flat around 3.30pm, as after the lunch rush, the chairs are comfortable and relaxing. are And since there is less to choose from, which is great, because I'm busy, hungry and don't want to think; The counter tells me. Also, by mid-afternoon, the last of the vegetable dishes they do so well - several inch-deep eggplant Parmigiana, mashed potato cake, flat green beans stewed in tomatoes, and rosemary-roasted potato wedges. Cubes - sat for a while, rested, soaked. And now that the warmer days are back in, the long but chill-out-of-the-oven vegetable dishes are even better for resting, and they taste all the better for it.
However, it was four o'clock, too late, and I saw the last piece of Parmigiana in an aluminum box being driven home by a man in a Guns N' Roses cap with a guitar strapped to his back. Which, of course, made me resent him and his Parmigina even more. So, after a ball of rice and a potato croquette with a little cheese in the middle, I bought basil, tomatoes and mozzarella, which I scooped out of a plastic bag of cloudy liquid and put on a plate in the fridge, so that Drain it overnight, ready for the next day.
It was only when I got everything out the next morning - a plate of dry mozzarella, parmesan, tomatoes and basil for the sauce - that I realized I'd forgotten the key ingredient: the bloody aubergine. It was already hot, and the thought of going out again and then roasting slice after slice of eggy aubergine seemed less than appealing. But I had courgettes, and parmigiana is just a layered, baked thing … which brings me to this week's recipe. Can they work? And can they work without pre-frying, or do they release a lot of water while cooking and make the whole thing go sour?
The answer is: yes, they work! And, yes, they release large amounts of liquid. That's why this week's recipe is a spot and tilt exercise. Scoop thin strips of courgette, dot the pre-dried mozzarella, and then, halfway through cooking, take the tin out of the oven and tilt it slightly to drain some of the excess liquid. But, instead, it's a most delightful bake, stewed and softened in wine before being baked into a firm slice with tomatoes and two types of cheese.
I think the resting period is even more important than with eggplant parmigiana for the rest of the juices and sauce to absorb and for the mozzarella and parmesan to cool, so the cheese binds everything together. Take the lead from Felice - in the oven by 11am and out by 11.45, eaten at 2pm. It's even better at 3.30 though, with a beer on the table by the window.
Courgette, mozzarella and parmesan layered baking
Serves 4-6.
600g courgettes
salt
500g mozzarella, drained and blanched overnight.
Olive Oil
300ml tomato paste, or thick tomato sauce.
100g Parmesan, grated
A big handful of basil leaves
Using a mandoline or potato peeler, slice the courgettes into thin strips - don't worry if they're not perfect. Pat dry with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with salt. Cut the mozzarella into small, coarse pieces and dry them.
Grease a deep-sided metal tin or small baking dish with oil, then use one-third of the courgettes to make a base layer, arranging the pieces neatly, but don't overcrowd. Cover with a third of the sauce, a third of the cheese, half of the mozzarella and a handful of basil leaves. Repeat the layers of courgette, sauce, Parmesan and remaining mozzarella and basil, then finish with a final layer each of courgette, sauce and remaining Parmesan.
Bake at 190C (170C fan)/375F/Gas 5 for 20 minutes, then remove from the oven and pour off some excess liquid or cover. Return the tin to the oven and bake for a further 20 minutes or until the top is deep and golden.
Let rest for at least an hour before serving sliced with bread and salad.
