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Nigel Slater's guide to summer vegetable and herb-infused rice, and a delightful peach, raspberry, and redcurrant sundae

Nigel Slater's guide to summer vegetable and herb-infused rice, and a delightful peach, raspberry, and redcurrant sundae
At the culinary workstation, diligently chopping away. The herbs' alluring aroma wafts in delightful waves, vibrant, fresh, and rejuvenating. Initially, the parsley takes the stage—gentle, akin to the invigorating wake-up call of mint. Next comes dill, a rich, grass-green, and watery delight.

With fat bunches of herbs, my rice salad shall be an herbaceous wonder, with more greens than grains, reminiscent of the classic tabbouleh. While the fresh ones are still available, I mix the rice with broad beans and tiny green peas.

This blend joins the pan of warm, buttery rice, which occasionally emits wisps of steam, akin to smoke from a tipi, its lid resounding with clouds of cardamom, clove, cinnamon, and black pepper. Adding some rough pistachios, akin to gravel, and perhaps a sprinkling of dried rose petals for an extra touch of fragrance.

The rice is meant to be served warm, alongside a plate of aubergines, lengthwise slices seasoned with dried thyme and smoked garlic, ready to be grilled, or perhaps some succulent lamb cutlets—a decision to be made later. For dessert, we indulge in shimmering sundaes, lovingly prepared at the table with apricot-colored melon, cherries, and velvety vanilla ice-cream.

Already chilling in a bowl of ice, a delightful ruby-colored sauce awaits: a tart purée of redcurrants and raspberries, truly the essence of summer. And yes, I deliberately made a surplus, just so we can enjoy some for breakfast.

Summer Vegetable and Herb Rice

This dish truly shines when the rice is still warm, and the herbs are freshly chopped. Feel free to opt for edamame instead of broad beans if your fancy takes you. Serves 4

For the rice:

25g of butter
150g of basmati rice
½ tsp of salt
4 cloves
6 black peppercorns
½ cinnamon stick
8 green cardamom pods

For the herbs and greens:

400g of broad beans or edamame, shelled weight
300g of peas, podded weight
4 spring onions
2 medium courgettes
2 cloves of garlic
2 tbsp of olive oil
20g of parsley leaves
15g of mint sprigs
10g of coriander leaves and stems
15g of dill
50g of shelled pistachios
A few pinches of dried rose petals (optional)

Start by placing the rice in a deep bowl, covering it with warm water, and gently swishing it around with your fingers until the water turns milky. Discard the milky water and repeat this process once or twice more until the water becomes almost clear.

Next, melt the butter in a medium-sized, deep pan over moderate heat. Add the salt, cloves, peppercorns, and cinnamon stick. Crack open the green cardamom pods, leaving the seeds intact, and add them to the pan. Once the spices emit a warm, fragrant aroma, drain the rice and stir it into the spices until the rice becomes glossy with the melted butter. Pour water into the pan until it stands a couple of centimeters above the rice, then bring it to a boil. Cover the pan tightly with a lid, reduce the heat, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat but do not remove the lid.

Meanwhile, bring another pan of water to a boil, lightly salt it, and then add the broad beans or edamame and peas. Cook them for 3 to 4 minutes until tender, then drain and set them aside. While the peas and beans are cooking, finely chop the spring onions and roughly dice the courgettes. Peel and chop the garlic.

Once the peas and beans are drained, dry the pan, return it to the heat, and pour in the olive oil. Add the spring onions, courgette, and garlic, and cook them for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally until their cut sides turn golden. Then, remove the pan from the heat. While the courgettes cook, roughly chop the pistachios.

Finely chop the parsley, mint leaves, and coriander. Combine the herbs, pistachios, spring onions, courgettes, beans, and peas together. In a serving bowl, thoroughly mix the cooked rice with the herbs and beans. If desired, add a few dried rose petals to enhance the presentation.

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